If you head from the center of Crikvenica to Vinodol along the Dubračina River on the left, on a steep hill, you WILL NOT see the Badanj fortress. But it is there, right around the bend…
Yes, yes... it's a bit difficult to find a place to leave the car, but the old partisan way is valid here - get on with it, friend! That is why you will see it very well when you are on the other side of Vinodol - near the Grižana castle.
Let's say that right after the turn to the left, when you exit the canyon itself, and you just lose the viaduct in the rearview mirror, you used the entrance to someone's lot and left your car there. Go a little further, no more than a hundred steps, and you will see why you stopped.
Towards the Badanj fort, there is a very well built winding old road, maybe even from a long time ago, but in any case extremely well maintained. The ascent is not demanding. Ten minutes and you're at the finish line.
I find it interesting that Badanj was not included in the project Cultural route with the Ways of Frankopan although it was owned by the princes of Krk for at least 150 years - until the earthquake in the 14th century.
Christmas in the hands of Francopans
It is assumed that this fortress is from an earlier era, the Byzantines and antiquity are mentioned - and that Prince Bartol II. Krk "inherited" at the end of the 12th century from the previous masters. I don't know which ones, but I know that they were certainly not Venetians - because the fort was in the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom when it was owned by King Bela III. for his military merits, he received the counties of Modruš and Vinodol as a permanent fief. How Bartol II. he had no children, he left all his possessions, as a Croatian prince, to his nephew Vid II. Krčko, who was a Venetian prince.
Be that as it may, after that historic transaction, the princes of Krka became princes in two countries - the Kingdom of Croatia and Venice, and since then, for the next five hundred years, they have left significant traces in the all-round life of this part of Europe. When it fell into the hands of the Frankopans, Badanj lost its military significance, because it no longer had anything to protect. It is possible that for some time there was a sleeping crew in it, and then the earthquake did its thing, and the fort was finally abandoned.
The efforts invested in the protection, preservation and maintenance of the Badanj fort, starting with the approach road, markings and even interesting information boards, are worthy of praise. My partner in life, Biba, and I have visited many forts, and we can rightly point out Badanj as a bright example of orderliness.
What was particularly interesting for me to "discover" was, let's call it that, the medieval sanitary facility on the southern side of the fort. You can clearly see the remains of the walls of the rooms around the toilet openings, which speaks of the high awareness of the need to maintain cleanliness at that time.
If you are in Crikvenica, even on warmer days, Badanj is a good place for a short trip. In the shadow of the mountain, you will peacefully walk around the walls of this sleeping beauty at the gates of Vinodol.
Photo source: Tomislav Beronić
***
Order books FRANGERE PANE: Stories about Frankopans i Stella Aurea by Tomislav Beronić. The books are available at links
