Does it make sense to write about dark tourism at all, will anyone want to read about it?
These and similar questions ran through my head as I hesitated to address, or not at all, the topic of cemeteries as tourist attractions.
Anyway, I decided to write something about it because I myself liked to visit such places on my travels, especially when it came to really old cemeteries. These are tangible elements of our history from which much can be read about the culture of an individual nation. In me, among other things, they evoke a deep sense of respect.
Black, grief or dark tourism
It is a subtype of tourism, which in the literature is also called black, grief or dark tourism. It represents the phenomenon of visiting localities of a destination that offer representations, that is, scenes of death or suffering.
It flourished in the Romantic era, and today's authors believe that it has risen today thanks mainly to television. Recently, there has been an increased interest from the media, but also from scientists who analyze the effects on the tourism industry with a number of ethical issues.
Dark tourism has a large number of divisions, interpretations and spectra. Cemeteries as attractions have a historical aspect, so in their elements they can be placed in the middle of the spectrum. City cemeteries are not only specially arranged environments where great attention is paid to the protection of landscapes, architecture and monuments, but also an element of cultural heritage.
Varaždin cemetery as a French park
In this different way, you can also meet city of Varaždin. Many internet searchers advise tourists to visit the cemetery architecture in this baroque city. The Varaždin cemetery, created by the visionary soul of Herman Haller, is not only a resting place for the dead, but an outstanding example of park architecture and a natural monument.
The harmoniously arranged space was formed as far back as 1773 and was modeled on Vienna's Schönbrunn. Later, Haller continued landscaping by planting about 7.000 cypress, maple, ash, red beech, boxwood, magnolia and birch trees. It has thus been turned into a nature park, a peaceful resting place for the dead and a resting place for the eyes of the living.
By cutting the thuja into geometrically regular bodies, the cemetery took on the characteristics of a French park.
One of the most beautiful in Europe
The Varaždin cemetery has been known for a hundred years as a specially designed park space. Today, it is an exceptional combination of horticulture and artistic monuments, which is why it is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe.
Alleys, paths and passages are sprinkled with white stone as a contrast to the green walls of thuja in which various tombstones are woven - from barons and generals to the barely marked graves of ordinary poor people, but all equally surrounded by greenery and flowers.
Family tombs were designed by famous artists
Herman Haller is a famous Varaždin name that at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, inspired by the sights of the largest cities of Austria-Hungary, gave a strong stamp to the appearance of the city and the cemetery itself, which is the main city park. Namely, the whole area successfully permeates the surrounding city districts.
Haller has hired famous artists to design family tombs, and tourists are especially mentioned by Robert Frangeš-Mihanović, Rodin's acquaintance and the famous Antun Augustinčić, whose sculptures are located in front of the UN building in New York.
Angel of death
One of the most valuable monuments in the Varaždin cemetery is the 'Angel of Death', a work by the aforementioned sculptor Frangeš-Mihanović, which symbolically depicts the farewell of the living from the dead. It is located in the northern part of the cemetery, known as 'Hell'.
The old part of the cemetery with large, sloping and cracked gravestones, often overgrown with ivy, is the most impressive for many. The inscriptions are worn out by the weather so it takes a sharp eye to read the names and years.
It is also worth seeing the tomb-monument to Vatroslav Jagić, which is decorated with fresh flowers every day. The oldest preserved tombstone is believed to be that of the musician Johan Galin, originally from the Czech Republic. Emy Walther’s Tomb is another historicist-style building.
Today, the cemetery is maintained by the Varaždin municipal company Parkovi, which ensures a high level of protection and enhancement of cultural heritage. It is also working intensively on strengthening the tourist valorization of this historical gem.
European cemetery route
The Varaždin City Cemetery is part of European Cemeteries Route (Route of European Cemeteries). It is a project based on the mosaic of diverse customs, culture and history of Europe over the last 200 years through cemeteries. In 2011, it received the prestigious Ulyssess Award, which is awarded annually by the World Tourism Organization for innovation in tourism.
The inclusion of the Varaždin City Cemetery in the European Cemetery Route is a great recognition for the city itself. It is also a signpost to others how European integration and cooperation on European projects can achieve long-term positive effects and influence the creation of recognition in the European context.
Association of Famous Cemeteries of Europe
Let us mention that the Varaždin cemetery has been a member of the Association of Significant Cemeteries of Europe (ASCE) since 2003, which celebrates the week of visiting European cemeteries every year. At that time, various events, concerts, exhibitions and workshops were organized, all with the aim of pointing out to the citizens the historical and cultural importance of the cemetery.
It is interesting that information can be found in the media that the City Cemetery is the most visited tourist attraction in Varaždin. In a conversation with an employee of the Varaždin Tourist Board, we received the answer that it is definitely one of the most visited locations, but that it cannot say with certainty that it is absolutely the most visited.
Jewish cemetery in Varaždin
It is not so visited, which is a real pity because the history of the Jews in Varaždin is deeply connected with the city's past. The Jewish community that came to this area in the late 18th century disappeared during the Holocaust. The last burial on it was done in 1952, and today it arouses interest because certain news leaked about the relatives of celebrities who were allegedly buried there.
The inscriptions on the oldest tombstones are now too faded to be read, but it is clear that Croatian, German and Hebrew were used. The Jewish cemetery is sometimes visited by the curious and once a year by those who remember the Shoah (the Jewish name for the Holocaust). If you wish to enter, you will have to ask for a key from the Varaždin company Parkovi dd, which is stated in a notice at the entrance.
