She represented luxury in an age when birthdays were not celebrated, she would shine at the table and quickly disappear from it only during the most important festivities in Vodnjan.
Although you would think that as such it was rich in ingredients, layers and aromas, its specialty was in the long-term and demanding art of handling three simple ingredients. Without flour, its fantastic taste was created thanks to it eggs, sugar i almonds which, with their specific taste, revealed the secret of the soft Vodnjan soil.
One name was not enough for this unique cake, so it proudly bears two. One official with which it was written in the rich history of Vodnjan gastronomy - Torta de mandole and the other related to "Bumblebees" thanks to which it is called i "bumblebee cake".
Although you may have been confused for a moment and it seems to you that you hear the buzzing of bumblebees around a slice of sweet cake, it is actually a striking name for the inhabitants of Vodnjan who inherit the almost extinct Istro-Romanian (Istriot) dialect. It used to be spoken by the majority of residents of Vodnjan, whose nationality, as in the rest of Istria, was Italian, so the cuisine of Vodnjan, including its desserts, grew on Venetian foundations to which history added some other influences.
And while we have talked about it in the perfect tense so far, the use of the present and future is due to the Vodnjan Tourist Board, which dedicated itself to the preservation of this authentic and unique part of Vodnjan's heritage by launching the initiative to protect and value the Torte de mandola, with the proposal to declare it an intangible cultural asset . The goal is not only to preserve the originality of the recipe, but also to encourage local producers and lovers of tradition to promote the Torte de mandola so that it takes its rightful place at the national level.
Now that you have briefly met the peculiar star of our text and a very important part of the Vodnjan tradition that can be tasted during your stay in Vodnjan, but also in a special place in Zagreb, it is time to make you fall in love with Torta de mandole, a sweet symbol of Vodnjan, through a series of interesting things. identity.
Gastronomy with a golden seal
Vodnjan cuisine is simple, but rich in smells and tastes, it combines the influences of Venice with variations and additions of Austro-Hungarian and Slavic influences. Vodnjan's climate gave Vodnjan's dishes a golden stamp, premium extra virgin olive oil for which in the past it was enough to say «oio de Dignan», i.e. oil from Vodnjan and which in the time of Venice was exchanged for protection from enemies. The festivities in Vodnjan smelled of unique dessert sweet wine "vin de rosa", a type of prosecco in whose drops the people of Vodnjan collected the best of Malvasia and their viticultural skills. Along with such a superb wine, which reminded the famous Italian poet Gabriele D'Annunzi of roses with its scent, it was necessary to create a dessert of superb taste.
Traditional Bumbarian cuisine it was named, like the cake, after the Bumbari, i.e. the autochthonous people of Vodnjan whose name, it is assumed, arose from the wrong pronunciation of the word gruff, which would mean inhospitable, or fa bomb, which means to drink.
Bumbarian cuisine refined its simple simplicity with a fullness of flavors that came to the fore especially in sweets, and over time they became well-known and favorite delicacies. The people of Vodnjan still like to prepare dry cakes called pampagnachi (pampanjaki), then kroštula, and there are also candied almonds, amaretti and fava beans, which are described in the recipe book "La couseina boumbara" of the Vodnjan Italian Community. However, in this sweet and delicious society, on the highest traditional pedestal reigns undisputedly throughout time a festive cake with an exceptional aroma - torta de mandole.
Sweet luxury for festive moments
Torta de mandole, or "bumbar" cake, is not just a dessert for the people of Vodnjan. By making it and enjoying it, they revive the memory of the ancestors with whom it beautified the most important moments of life, which is why the recipe, like a precious heritage treasure, was passed on to new generations.
Birthdays were not celebrated in traditional Vodnjan families, and food was a reflection of the times when the household used what it had. Torta de mandole was a luxury which the people of Vodnjan could afford only for special occasions - weddings, holidays and rare ceremonies.
Although many families left Vodnjan after World War II, taking precious cookbooks with them, Torta de mandole managed to survive. (Former) events like "Sweet Summer" reminded the locals of their old culinary roots, giving new life to recipes and heritage. Today, torta de mandole represents much more than a cake – it is a symbol of preserving the memory of the former life, work and customs of the people of this area. It is the cake that preserves the stories, taste and smell of childhood, a valuable legacy of the past that has been preserved thanks to the dedication of the generations who proudly prepared and shared it.
A taste that hides the secret of almond trees
And why was the taste of Torte de mandola so memorable? Vodnjan was and remains famous far and wide for many things, from olive oil, aromatic herbs to the largest number of small churches and kažuns, but few know that it was also decorated with numerous almond plantations which made the Torte de mandola taste truly authentic.
It is an interesting fact that the specific taste and smell of almonds is greatly influenced by the position of the almond tree. In the past, the people of Vodnjan planted them on soil called "girasso", which was softer, which gave the almonds a special smell, and the cake an irresistible taste.
Recipe as a treasure preserved in yellowed notebooks
The recipe for Torta de mandole was copied from notebook to notebook, the pages of which would have turned yellow from leafing through the past years, and perhaps from some traces of long-term preparation. According to the available information, it was made by a housewife from Vodnjan first written down around 1942 since it was passed down with a lot of love and attention within the family.
The ingredients for the cake - almonds, eggs, sugar - were easy to remember, but the method and finesse of preparation and some little tricks always had to be reminded. Thus, in some variants, brandy or a little lemon peel would be added to mask the "freschin" taste, i.e. the freshness of the eggs, and room temperature eggs and placing the cake in a cold oven before heating are very important for a successful result.
Vodnjanka had to arm themselves with a lot of patience, but also have strong hands because the egg whites were beaten by hand, with a fork and very slowly, which could take up to two hours because otherwise the cake would not rise. However, all the effort would be rewarded with the simple and rich aroma of the cake, which would every time bring sighs of satisfaction from everyone gathered around the festive table, as well as a proud smile from the tired housewife. Thus Torta de mandole became the favorite dessert of all generations.
Recipe for torte de mandole
ingredients:
- 300 g of almonds
- 300 g of sugar
- 8 eggs
<strong>Preparation: </strong>
Separate the yolks from the whites. Make snow from egg whites in a separate bowl, then beat the egg yolks with sugar until foamy. Alternately add finely ground almonds and snow to the mixture with egg yolks, mixing from bottom to top, with slow movements, to obtain a lump-free mixture. Grease the cake mold with butter and lightly sprinkle with flour, and shake off the excess flour. Place in a cold oven. Bake at 180 degrees for 40 minutes. Leave to cool and sprinkle with powdered sugar and chopped almonds.
Where can you try torta de mandole?
After reading the text, you will certainly wish for the first opportunity to taste this famous cake, which you now know so much about that you can almost feel the taste of Vodnjan almonds on your palate. Served with lots of love, a slice of cake awaits you in a beautiful Vodnjanka restaurant in the center of Zagreb where it is baked by a master of traditional Vodnjan cuisine, Chef Svjetlana Celija. You will find bumblebee cake made by her hand in the summer and in Vodnjan's caffè bar Piazza on Narodni trg and a little outside Vodnjan in Pršutarna and station Buršić which also prepares them.
Torta de mandole is not just a dessert, it is a symbol of the culinary heritage and identity of the people of Vodnjan. With its rich taste and simple but carefully selected ingredients, this dessert embodies the spirit of tradition that has been passed down from generation to generation. With every slice you eat, you will contribute to its preservation, so let this fact be your incentive to enjoy it often!
