Perna is historically interesting also because it was the first in Croatia, in 1225, to be received from King Bela IV. privileges of the free royal city, ie 17 years before Gradec, the Upper City of today's Zagreb.
Throughout history, it was mostly ruled by the Šubićs, more precisely the Peranski family branch, and from 1461 to 1479 it was owned by the Frankopan princes, first Dujam Slunjski and then Martin II.
Just traveling to Pern is an experience in itself. A better option is via Toupuski, then at the remains of the abbey turn right towards Ponikvari and then about ten kilometers along the main road. After the "Perna" sign, drive straight through the village and come to a crossroads where the asphalt leads to the left, and the macadam is straight. That macadam road is towards Vrginmost, but only 2-3 kilometers, and then there is asphalt there as well. It is a worse variant of the approach because of that macadam.
In both cases at this intersection continue on the asphalt road to the southwest. After 200-300 meters you will cross the stream by a bridge that is drawn in all the maps I found, including the one from 1774. This is the best indicator that you are on the right track. Stick to the road and after the next two hundred meters you have macadam to the right that leads to some property, but stick to the asphalt for another hundred meters. The asphalt road leads right up the hill, but you continue a little further straight and park there somewhere. Just like us.
Don't repeat our mistake and head across the meadow to the stream. Walk a little further down the road, maybe the next hundred meters, pass a wooden house on the right and in front of you you will see another wooden house on the left. There, turn into a field or meadow and go all the way below and behind the house towards the stream. When we visited Perna there were beehives - maybe not when you go.
Approximately in the plane of the house on the hill on the left are the remains of the town of Pernik or Perna, as you wish. You will not see it as well as Zimić or Skrad because it is equally well hidden in the vegetation. You will know that you are on the right track by the fact that you will come across a log with a handrail (a bridge would be a superlative). Cross it and half-right along the hill, if it is not vegetation and with a little luck and faith in God you will see the remains of the mantle of the outer wall. That's it! GPS 45.28295537429758, 15.854805912481432
Similar to the fortifications of Zimić and Skrad, Perna was built on three levels.
The outer mantle extends to the west in a semicircle in the length of which is about fifty meters. This is also the most impressive part. Hard to see, but still visible, is the access road that goes around the walls on the west side and there used to be a city gate that led to the suburbs, the space between the outer and middle mantle. Here you will find the remains of walls in several places. Using the map of Gjuro Szaba, which was edited a little better by Krešo Regan, we somehow manage to find out where something was or at least could have been. Yet it has been over 700 years since it was made.
Climbing to intermediate and advanced levels is very strenuous. After the demolition of the hillfort, the soil and humus made a lot of inaccessible slopes and to climb to the highest level where the two towers were is a real adventure. But when you manage to reach the top then you have something to see, but you only come at a time of year when there is no vegetation yet. The view shoots to be graceful. We deserved sandwiches, bananas, water and of course home-made herbs from Zoran's cousin from Šolta, one that burns the throat, disinfects the stomach, heals physical and spiritual wounds and forgives all sins.
On the way back we pass on the south side of the fort, through a ditch that had an obvious fortification role and we come to the entrance to the caves. According to Lopasic's book, the tunnels are over a hundred meters long. Goran explains to us how speleologists investigated them, and I guess they left those big stones in front of them in order to deter all other bystanders in their intentions.
On the way back we go over a bridge, or rather a log, which I have already mentioned, and my attempt to find the remains of two mills did not end very happily. The rocks and waterfalls I found may or may not have been associated with the mills. The alluvium is too great, and I am too tired for more research. On the way back we try to find the locations of the old church (Orthodox) and the even older St. Marija (Catholic), but we didn't succeed either. However, more than satisfied with the trip, especially the dude Dante who took the opportunity to swim in the stream, we all go together to Topusko for coffee, beer and all that twice. Arranging our impressions, we dig a little through the past, especially Frankopan, and confirm the agreement for the following trips: Klokoč, Otmić, Krstinja… and how much of that we get.
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