On the journey along the state road that leads from Karlovac via Josipdol to Senj, stop in Tounj and take a look the only single-story stone bridge in Croatia. The ground floor of the bridge, which represents an exceptional architectural and artistic work, was built under the leadership of military engineer Vinko Struppi in 1777, during the construction of Josipova cesta or Jozefina from Senj to Karlovac.

On the bridge with baroque-classical features, which stretches over the bed of the Tounjčica river with steep sides, the builders then placed on the bridge railings 10 stone statues, memorial plaques and decorations, which is also unique in Croatia. During the renovation and rearrangement of Jozefina, military engineer Josip Kajetan Knežić had the bridge raised in 1836, so that the road would have a smaller slope, and the stone monuments moved to the upgraded floor.
The upgraded bridge, with three arched openings on both "floors", became 13 meters high and 70 meters long with access ramps. It was badly damaged at the end of the Second World War, but gradually it was thoroughly restored. The search for the monument legacy of the bridge that disappeared during the war has ended after a full 67 years. Especially with the efforts of the Municipality of Tounj, 2010-2011. restored statues, memorial plaques and decorations were returned to the bridge parapets.

The bridge, which is still used by vehicles, has thus again become a "living and magnificent museum exhibit and open-air art gallery". The bridge simply entices travelers to stop at the nearby rest stops, to examine it closely and admire the craftsmanship of its builders. It is especially worth coming up and looking around four "Guardian of the Bridge" sculptures, on which warrior helmets and shields stand out, as the supposed emblem of the Military Border, whose sons, brave soldiers and excellent craftsmen, bequeathed us an amazing building.

In the majestic bosom of the Tounjčica Cave
In addition to the magnificent stone Josip bridge, in Tounj you should also see the picturesque source gorge of the Tounjčica river. They will guide you through the narrow valley Excursion promenade "Tounjčica Educational Trail". The Tounj Municipality has arranged the track and the environment for decades. The promenade partly follows the medieval road which, after crossing the bridge to the left bank, climbed up to the town of Tounj.
The fortified city of Tounj it was located above the spring of Tounjčica, which flows from the cave of the same name. After the old name for the cave, the city was originally called Peć. Since the 15th century, it has been mentioned as the property of the Frankopan noble family. It was an important stronghold in the battles with the Ottomans. The remaining round tower, to which a newer building is attached, is reminiscent of the fort. Nearby is worth a visit the early baroque church of St. John of Nepomuk from the 17th century, unusual oval shape.

The central point of the hiking trail, arranged in a length of about one and a half kilometers, is Francopan bridge. The wooden bridge, 20 meters long, was rebuilt in 2017 on the original medieval stone abutments. About 150 meters upstream from the bridge are the ruined remains of a mill that once served the town of Tounja with flour. A hundred meters away, a magnificent church is visible entrance hall of the Tounjčica Cave. In dry weather, you can walk into it, to the lake from which Tounjčica flows.

The cave is 465 meters long, and is connected by underground streams to the Cave in the Tounj quarry, with 8,5 kilometers of explored passages. the fifth longest cave in Croatia. The remains of the wall are visible in the cave right next to the entrance hall. Prezid may confirm the legend about three families, who took refuge there in times of danger from the Turks. The depiction of the entrance to the Tounjčica Cave on the view of the historian Janez Vajkard Valvasor from 1676 is the first known drawing of a Croatian cave.

Ingredients - beautiful nature and mysterious past
The ingredients are a corner of peculiar beauty, the confluence of the karst river beauties - Mrežnice and Tounjčice. It is a common opinion that the Tounjčica, which is about 12 kilometers long, flows into the Mrežnica, which is over five times longer. For visits to the estuary, you will be convinced that it is Mrežnica that, over a 3-meter high and spacious waterfall, flows down to Tounjčica.

Approach the mouth from the south, on macadam across the Ključ plateau. The plateau has the shape of a "peninsula" surrounded by the waters of Tounjčica and Mrežnica. It is just above the mouth Ethno-park Slap Sastavci, a paradise for everyone who wants to rest in nature and enjoy adventures. The center of the ethno-park is a wooden house with an ethnographic museum collection. The renovated mill offers an insight into the milling heritage of the region. And accommodation – picturesque cabins, an old barn, tents, a meadow under the open sky.

From Sastavak, the best way to go by canoe or kayak is to experience the extraordinary experience of sailing the Mrežnica, crossing some of the almost a hundred river waterfalls, waterfalls and rapids. Whether you go downstream, or choose to drive upstream, you will be enchanted by the emerald color of the river, the waterfalls that flow down the travertine dams and the soothing sound of the falling water. Enjoy discovering the historical heritage on foot; A 15-minute walk along the path along the left bank of Mrežnica will bring you to the ruins of Ključ.

The medieval city of Ključ, owned by the most important Croatian noble family, the Frankopani, was one of the defensive forts that prevented the Turkish Empire from encroaching on Croatia to the west. The remains of Ključ are on a small plateau above a steep cliff, from which there is a view of the deep river gorge. Traces of an earlier settlement, perhaps dating back to prehistoric times, must be hidden under the medieval ruins. Stop and feel the combination of amazing nature and mysterious past.
The comfort of a break by the Božidar Spring
In the village of Potok Tounjski, along the historic Josipova cesta (Jozefina), which connected Senj with Karlovac in 1779, the intending traveler can refresh yourself with clean cold water at the Božidar Spring. At a small roadside rest area, there is a fountain from which for most of the year, with the exception of the dry summer, flows an abundant stream of water with which you can quench your thirst and refresh your face, hands and shoulders.

The building complex, which consists of a fountain, water supply and spring reservoir, was built in 1847, two years after the military engineer Josip Kajetan Knežić completed the extensive reconstruction of the original Jozefina. The Božidar Spring is one of the stone buildings - bridges, sundials, landmarks, fountains, memorial plaques... which together with Jozefin form the ultimate work of road construction in Croatia from the end of the 18th and the first half of the 19th century.

It is worth taking a break here and getting to know the simple and harmonious building as a whole, carefully renovated in 2020, which, like the nearby Tounj bridge, has the property of being a cultural asset. The view first captivates elongated fountain of trapezoidal section, carefully shaped from broken stone. Water from the faucet, located on the square slab of the facade facing the road, on which a dedication to the then ruler is carved, flows into a rectangular stone trough. Originally, during the construction of the fountain, two more were placed on the sides of the central pool, for watering horses and cattle.

If you climb about 300 meters from the fountain, along the forest average along a gentle slope, you will reach the spring that fills the fountain with water. The spring is protected by a stone water reservoir house, with a shallow two-flow cover made of stone slabs. From the spring, the water flows into the fountain through a channel, made from stones dug into the ground. With the sound of running water and the greenery surrounding Vrelo Božidar, you will feel comfortable and relaxed.
>>>Read more stories by Tomislav Beronić<<<
Co-author: Goran Majetić
Photo source: Tomislav Beronić
Order the book STELLA AUREA – Stories about Frankopans by Tomislav Beronić.
The book is available at PCONNECTORS